historic district, a showcase of nineteenth century Creole architecture. The city is liveliest during Carnaval when the streets fill with parades of musicians, floats, dancers and vejigantes - revellers in devilish-looking painted masks. Things also heat up here in November, during the Fiesta Nacional de Bomba y Plena when drummers and dancers gather to compete. There are also a number of interesting sights on the outskirts of town, including Tibes Indian Ceremonial Park and Hacienda Buena Vista.

While the historic centre is indeed worth seeing, the city still feels like it lacks energy, and the architecture may fail to impress, especially if you come here after a few days in San Juan. Note that on Mondays and Tuesdays Ponce's cultural and historical institutions are closed