San Juan - Eating

San Juan is garnering a reputation as the culinary capital of the Caribbean - a smorgasbord of both international cuisines and endless variations on Puerto Rican staples. Condado and Old San Juan have the highest concentration of good restaurants, but fine food can be found in most areas of the city which draw visitors, and Miramar, the residential district south of Condado, also has its fair share of eateries.

Old San Juan
Amadeus Calle San Sebastian 106 tel 787/722-8635. Excellent nouvelle Caribbean cuisine served until 2am to a hip crowd in a handsome, eighteenth-century brick and stone building; try the dumplings with guava sauce and arrowroot fritters or the...
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Condado
Ajili-Mojili Avda Ashford 1052 tel 787/725-9195. Superb classic criollo cuisine prepared by chef Mariano Ortiz attracts a loyal following of upscale sanjuaneros. The menu features the likes of savoury pork loin sautéed with onions, and...
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Ocean Park and Isla Verde
Che's Calle Caoba 35, Ocean Park/Isla Verde tel 787/726-7202. Argentine-style grill with reputedly the most tender, flavourful parrillada (grilled, marinated meat) and good Chilean and Argentinian wines. Entrees US$15-25.

Dunbars Calle McLeary 1954, Ocean Park tel 787/728-2920. This sprawling, collegiate dive with upscale bar food is boisterous even during mid-week. Live music on Fridays.

Panadería España Avda Baldorioty de Castro, Calle Marginal, Isla Verde tel 787/727-3860. Good place to stock up for a picnic, a block from the beach. Excellent sandwiches, café con leche , tortillas and thick chicken soup with vegetables.

Repostería Kasalta 1966 Calle McLeary, Ocean Park tel 787/727-7340. This stainless-steel emporium of cured meats and cheeses, breads, wines and fine imported goods is a requisite stop. The café con leche is superb.

Miramar and Santurce
Augusto's Cuisine Hotel Excelsior , Avda Ponce de León 801, Miramar tel 787/725-7700. Somewhat stuffy hotel restaurant offering serious French and Continental cuisine. Chef Augusto Schreiner delivers the likes of veal brains au beurre noir with capers and a hot chocolate soufflé to die for. Entrees US$24-36.

Chayote Hotel Olimpo Court , Av Miramar 603, Miramar tel 787/722-9385. International cuisine by chef/owner Mario Pagan features unlikely blends of fresh tropical ingredients. Menu items include ceviche in rosewater essence with sweet yam croquettes or halibut with yam gnocchi in fresh corn cream sauce. Entrees US$23-26.

Pikayo Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico, Avda de Diego 300, Santurce tel 787/721-6194. Changing menus by celebrated chef Wilo Benet and views of a gorgeous five-acre garden have earned this ultra-chic spot inside the new museum the distinction of being "one of the world's 100 most exciting restaurants". The lamb chops with ripe plantain salpicón and conch spring rolls with orange sofrito sauce are extraordinary. Entrees US$29 -35.