By car
If you rent a car, you may want to consider spending a little extra on insurance, particularly if you intend to drive in the capital: Puerto Rican drivers can be very unpredictable. You'll need to drive defensively and stay alert at all times. Don't be caught off guard, for instance, if a car suddenly passes you on the sidewalk or shoulder. Rubbernecking is great sport - mostly on the part of men checking out the pretty girls, a phenomenon that's almost comically exaggerated in San Juan. It's also not uncommon to encounter cars turning without signalling, barrelling down the centre of the road, or not using headlights at night.

Prepare yourself for many narrow one-way streets indicated (or not, in some cases) by tránsito signs with arrows pointing in the direction of traffic. When in doubt, go slow and note the direction of parked cars.

Parking can be a nightmare. Many businesses don't have car parks, so vehicles line up on the sidewalk, and many drivers think nothing of straddling two spaces.

By taxi
Plenty of taxis turísticos cruise the streets during the day in Condado and Old San Juan; in other neighbourhoods, you may have to call first. Taxis are supposed to charge US$1 to start and 10 cents for each 1/13 of a mile, but in practice drivers never turn on their meters, so you'll need to agree on a price before you set foot in the car. If you call for a cab, ask the dispatcher the cost and confirm it with the driver when you're picked up. Two companies to call are Cooperative Major Taxi Cabs (tel 787/723-2460) or Metro-Taxi Cab (tel 787/725-2870).

If you're travelling at night, don't expect to hail a cab from just anywhere on the street; taxis run much less frequently after 10pm. Be sure to call in advance from a safe location as you may end up waiting as long as an hour

By bus
Buses (known as guaguas ) can be slow, and on weekends and after 9pm infrequent, but you can't beat the price - 25 cents on Metropolitan Bus Authority vehicles and 50 cents on the Metrobus, and routes cover most of the city. Schedules, which are often hard to come by, are sometimes available at the bus terminal, or at PRTC offices at the airport. Guaguas can be helpful for newcomers learning their way around the city; even sanjuaneros who don't ride them orient themselves according to the numbered stops, or paradas . If you ask for directions, you're likely to hear that a particular destination "está cerca de parada 23" (is near stop 23).

Most bus lines service rough neighbourhoods en route to popular tourist areas, particularly those that depart from the airport. Watch your valuables amid the crowd, and take care to get off at the right stop.