For a metropolis of its size, the quality of the food in Ponce is wanting, especially if you've been spoiled by San Juan's impressive range of options. A few places will tide you over, however, and Mark's at the Melía is excellent.

Café Tomás Calle Isabel tel 787/840-1965. Good café con leche , hearty criollo cooking and sandwiches are available at this neighbourhood hangout.

King's Creams Plaza de Las Delicias. Delicious ice creams with unusual tropical flavours; perfect for a stroll around the plaza.

La Cava   Ponce Hilton and Casino , Avda Caribe 1150 tel 787/259-7676. Continental menu changes every six weeks; past offerings include duck foie gras with toasted brioche and an excellent black and white soufflé. There's also a champagne and cigar bar. Entrees US$25-28.

Lupitas Calle Isabel tel 787/848-8808. Filling, reasonably priced Mexican food in a courtyard setting, with live music on weekends.

Mark's at the Melía   Hotel Melía , Plaza de Las Delicias tel 787/842-0260. Renowned chef Mark French prepares inventive variations on criollo staples, like mofongo with barbecue tamarind duck or corn-crusted red snapper with yucca puree. Entrees US$18-28.